Whether you are an ambitious student looking to improve your grades or a simple hobbyist trying to refine your skills, understanding how to study effectively can greatly improve the quality of your time spent learning.

Below is a list of the three most effective studying strategies that you can implement today!

Strategy List Overview

1. Feynman technique
2. Leitner System
3. The SQR3 Method

1. Feynman Technique

The idea of the Feynman technique is to help learners become aware of the difference between knowing and understanding. This is done by the learner taking a concept/principle and explaining it to others.

By doing this, you are forced to use much simpler words and phrases than you would normally. This in turn helps you to have a deeper understanding of the subject and identify where the deficiencies in your understanding lie. Often, we can use complex words and phrases as a crutch not understanding their true meaning.

Below are the steps needed to implement the technique.

Steps

1. List the concept you want to study
2. Write a simple and clear explanation
3. review explanation
4. re-learn and re-read
5. Repeat

2. Leitner System

The Leitner system is a technique that utilizes the principle of spaced repetition using flashcards and boxes. For each box, you assign a certain number of times you will review the cards inside (e.g. every day, every other day, and once a week).

The effectiveness of this technique is that cards you are able to memorize quickly will go to the end where they will be reviewed less often. While the cards you are not able to memorize as quickly stay toward the front requiring you to review them more often. But there is a catch, no matter at what point the card is if you are not able to remember the card it then gets sent to the front to start all over again.

3. SQR3 Method

The SQR3 method is a reading technique that can be used to help learners read more proactively. Being more proactive helps learners better recall the information that they read as well as have a deeper understanding of its importance.

Below is a step-by-step explanation of how to implement the SQR3 reading method.

1. Skim
2. Questions
3. R1 = Read
4. R2 = Recite
5. R3 = Review

Steps

1. Skim

First, begin by skimming and noting all the headers and key themes in the passage.

2. Questions

After having skimmed the passage, begin the second step by making each of the headings into as many questions that you think will be answered in the passage.

3. R1 = Read

The third step is to read and look for answers to the questions asked in the previous step.

4. R2 = Recite

After reading, summarize in your own words what the section was about and the answers to the questions that you had asked.

5. R3 = Review

The last step is to review. In this step, go over any points or passages that you felt were unclear or questions that you had while reading. Answer these questions and review again.

Conclusion:

By now you should have the skills to be able to receive more value from studying. Please feel free to implement any of the techniques listed above best suited to your needs. Best of luck.

– Steven

Nothing is as seemingly painful for a photographer than getting back from a long shoot only to realize that all the photos that you took are blurry. Adding salt to the wound, the photos that you were especially excited about are the worst.

We’ve all been there learned those hard lessons. But I would argue that this is not the worst thing ever, actually I would say that it’s a great thing! You want your photos to be sharp and be able to replicate that every time. This indicates that you have a need to strengthen your skills and knowledge as a photographer. With this list, soon you’ll be taking razor sharp photos.

If you are in a rush, check below for an overview of all the points in the list. Please feel free to jump around to each of the points as they pertain to you.

Solution overview

1. Slow Shutter Speed
2. Auto Focus (Single Point)
3. Caffeine / Too little Food
4. Image stabilization 

1. Shutter Speed 

One of the most common problems that new photographers run into while trying to take sharp photos is shutter speed. A slower shutter speed can cause shaking and image blur. While in certain cases image blur can be an extremely creative tool, however, if undesired it can be extremely unfortunate. A common rule of thumb is that if you are walking about and trying to freeze motion completely in your image 1/250 shutter speed is a great option.

If you are in a low-light scenario or need more light and can’t change your ISO and aperture then “really cutting it close” would be don’t go below the reciprocal of your focal length. An example is if you are using a 50mm lens try not to go below 1/50 shutter speed. That being said, keep in mind that even shooting at this shutter speed can be difficult.

2. Auto Focus

Another common problem that many photographers run into when dealing with blurry photos is with focus. To save a lot of head ache and time, use auto focus (if available) rather than manual focus. Modern cameras are so good at focusing correctly that even the cameras themselves are able to see things that we can’t. Generally you can enable autofocus by switching the button from MF to AF on your camera lens.

Now, when you half press the shutter button your camera will automatically look for a point to focus on. As great as this is, if you do not indicate which specific point to focus, your camera might try to pull a different part of the image into focus. You can solve this by enabling single point auto focus. Single point auto focus will tell the camera exactly on which point you want to focus.

For the final step, you will need to choose what kind of autofocus you want the camera to use. As a quick overview, you will most likely use only two, One-shot and Continuous (also called AI Servo). Most of the time you will use one-shot. However, if you have a subject that is moving a lot and you want the camera to keep track of that subject then use continuous autofocus.

(Note) There are certain situations in which manual focus would be preferred like in astrophotography and atypical lighting. However for the majority of the time you can reliably use auto focus.

3. Food / Caffeine

This point might seem abnormal at first, but limiting your caffeine intake and having something to eat before you shoot can be just as effective. Even if you feel as though you have a high caffeine resistance, your hands can still be shaky from the caffeine. Similarly if you haven’t eaten much, your photo could be affected by hunger shakes.

You might be tempted to think “I could just increase my shutter speed to account for the hand shake.” and for the majority of the time you can. But you might find yourself in a situation where there’s not enough light to account for the shaking.

General tips, try to not intake caffeine within 4 hours of a shoot. Similarly try to pack a snack in your bag that can act as quick and easy calories to help stave off hunger shakes. I personally like to keep a couple bananas and a granola bar since they’re not messy and don’t leave a lot of residue on the fingers.

4. Image stabilization

For the last point I would like to touch briefly on in camera body and lens image stabilization. Most modern lenses and cameras have image stabilization that helps the photographer get sharp shots in less than ideal shooting situations. Uneven terrain, a strong gust of wind, and even a car horn honking can make you move just enough to make the image blurry.

Some camera bodies and lenses can even work together to provide even better stabilization. Check with your users manual and online to see if you can utilize this feature. If not, try enabling the in camera body stabilization. For lenses, typically there is a switch on the side to toggle the stabilizer on and off. Once both are turned on, you will have stabilization from 2 different points.

Conclusion

If you apply all or even some of the points listed above your photos will not only dramatically increase in sharpness, but you will have greater control over the result of the image taken. While this list is not exhaustive, these are some of the things that have helped me with taking sharper images. Let me know in the comments what are some of things that has helped you take sharp photos!

-Steven

You did it! You have finally decided to buy a DSLR/mirrorless camera. Everything is going great, you are taking amazing photos and you start to wonder where has this interest been your whole life.

Then you start to notice your photos, although amazing, don’t have the rich creamy bokeh that you see in other photos. On top of this, you start to feel a little disconnected from photo taking process. It doesn’t feel as exciting as when you started.

This feeling is normal and in fact, is a great thing! It means you have outgrown your kit lens and it’s time to invest in a prime lens.

Congratulations!

But what is a prime Lens?

Unlike a zoom lens, which has a variety of focal lengthens, a prime lens only has one. Yep, just one! This means that in order to get closer to the subject you would need to “zoom” with your feet. This can be quite jarring to photographers who are used to standing in one place and moving the focus ring to get closer. While at first, this might seem to limit, it can actually be quite beneficial.

Pros for Buying a Prime Lens

1. Budget Friendly

When deciding between choosing prime or zoom, your budget can be a huge factor. Quality zoom lenses are often a lot more expensive than buying a quality prime lenses.

An important question to ask yourself when deciding to buy a prime lens is, do I want/need multiple focal lengths that are good or one that is amazing? Answering this can help a lot with knowing what kind of lens you would need and potentially save you a lot of money.

2. Faster Aperture – Better in low light

Another pro, when buying a prime lens, is the ability to have a wider aperture. This means more light can enter the camera. Why does this matter? Being able to shoot in low-light settings without having to crank up the ISO can be for a lot of photographers a huge selling point. Less ISO generally means less noise in the photo, which often can be distracting for the viewer.

Because the camera can take in more light, a higher shutter speed can add more options to the photographer’s tool belt for creative expression.

3. Improves Your Creative Eye

My last point, if not the biggest reason to buy a prime lens, is that you will greatly improve your ability to take more engaging and powerful photos. Being reduced to a single focal length can be a bit of a challenge. But by being forced to one length you will have to move physically, which in turn will expand your ability to capture subjects in unique compositions that you wouldn’t have thought of initially. This is an incredibly important skill to have not only for beginners but also for advanced photographers who feel that they are stagnating in their creative development.

What Now?

By now you should be asking yourself, what kind of prime lens should I get? There are so many to choose from. There are however two focal lengthens that are fantastic go-to options. Primes are not only extremely versatile but affordable as well. These are the 50mm and the 35mm.

(Important Note)

When referring to focal lengths I am referring to these lengthens for a full-frame sensor. If you were to buy a 50mm camera that has an APS-C sensor you would instead have a length of ~75mm. When you are buying a prime lens make sure to take into account the sensor size of your camera. In this guide, we are using the full frame equivalent.

Which one should you buy?

For your convenience, I have compiled a list detailing some of the pros and cons of the 2 lenses.

35mm

Pros:

• Closest length at which we naturally see

• Provides a classic look that many photographers use

• Easier to use in tight spaces

Cons:

• Some distortion for close-up portraits

• Not as much depth of field as the 50mm

• Generally can be more expensive than a 50mm

50mm

Pros:

• Can achieve amazing bokeh.

• Cheaper than most other prime lenses.

• An amazing go-to for portraits.

Cons:

• Not able to capture as much of a scene as a 35mm.

• Harder to use in tight environments.

Closing Thoughts

Whichever lens you should buy really comes down to what kind of photography you shoot the most. Do you like shooting portraits and need amazing bokeh for food photography, A 50mm would be a great option. Or, do you find yourself wanting to capture more of the scene and are able to shoot in less-than-ideal environments, A 35mm might work better for you.

But it all really comes down to you, yes you. You could have all the best gear in the world but still take less-than-average photos. The greatest photos that you think you’ve ever taken are probably memorable not because of what gear they used, but rather the story and felt it communicated to you.

All the best!

-Steven Hopkins